Disclaimer: Cleaning Steps and Information Disclaimer

The information provided on this website, including any cleaning steps or guidance offered, is intended solely for educational and general informational purposes. As a chemical manufacturer producing cleaning chemicals, we strive to provide accurate and helpful information to our visitors. However, it is important to understand and acknowledge the following disclaimer:

Non-liability: The cleaning steps and information provided on this website are not intended to be professional advice or a substitute for professional cleaning services. While we make reasonable efforts to ensure the accuracy and reliability of the information presented, we cannot guarantee its completeness, suitability, or applicability to individual circumstances. Therefore, any reliance you place on such information is strictly at your own risk.

Individual Responsibility: The implementation of cleaning steps or procedures suggested on this website is solely at your discretion. It is crucial to exercise caution and judgment when utilizing any cleaning techniques, particularly when dealing with chemicals. You should always consider your specific situation, the nature of the surfaces or materials involved, and any relevant safety guidelines or regulations.

Assumption of Risk: By accessing and using the information provided on this website, you acknowledge and accept that the use of cleaning steps or products may involve certain risks. This includes but is not limited to the risk of property damage, personal injury, or adverse reactions caused by improper handling, application, or misuse of cleaning chemicals. You agree to assume full responsibility for any consequences that may arise from your use of the information provided on this website.

Professional Advice: For complex or delicate cleaning tasks, we strongly recommend consulting with professional cleaning services or seeking guidance from experts in the field. They possess the necessary knowledge, skills, and experience to address unique challenges and ensure appropriate cleaning procedures are followed.

Limitation of Liability: In no event shall our company, its affiliates, employees, or representatives be held liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, or special damages resulting from your use of the information, cleaning steps, or products referenced on this website. This includes but is not limited to damages to property, loss of data, loss of profits, or any other losses or expenses arising from or related to the use of this information.

By continuing to use this website and accessing the provided information, you acknowledge that you have read, understood, and agreed to the terms and conditions of this disclaimer. If you do not agree with any part of this disclaimer, we advise you to refrain from using the information provided on this website.

Please remember that cleaning tasks involving chemicals should always be approached with caution, following proper safety guidelines and recommendations. If you have any doubts or concerns, it is advisable to consult professionals or seek guidance from appropriate sources.

Last updated: 5-23-2023

ANIMAL SKINS

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Note all pre-existing damage. Document and photograph existing conditions.
2.  Check if the animal hair is rotten. If the hair is rotten, it will come off the skin when agitated.
3.  Is the skin stiff, dry, stained and or cracking?
4.  Is the fur oxidized (yellowed)? Animal fur is never white, Photograph fur with a white sheet of paper to show the degree of yellowing in a “before” photo.
5.  Is the fur matted?
6.  Do not use solvent; doing so may damage plastic eyes, tongue, teeth etc. and/or dry-out the skin.
7.  Avoid heat both when washing and drying.
8.  Never use alkaline cleaners, stay on the acid side. We strongly recommend L.S.T.
9.  Are skins sewn together? Be careful of the stitching.
10.  Fabric backings must be removed. Quote price for replacement.

 

Cleaning procedures:

1. Do not run through duster or Badger.
2.  Air dust only, or beat face (hair side) with a stick or rug whip on pole, or turn rug upside down and have four people hold one of each corner and shake.
3. After dusting apply diluted (50/50 with water) leather conditioner to skin side.
4. Thoroughly flush with water, both sides
5.  Apply diluted L.S.T. solution and hand brush in over entire piece, both sides.
6.  Rinse with clean water.
7.  Use a weighted roller to push soil and shampoo off rug during rinse.
8.  If using a flat bed washer: (piece can have no head or paws) Run through washer on padding to prevent pin marks, with no brushes, no soap; only fresh water.
9.  Periodically during the drying process, roll skin side with roller to soften skin.                Do not skip this step.
10.  Do not dry in a Dry Room – NO HEAT
11.  Dry skin side up with air mover on tack out floor on top of upholstery quilt.
12.  Reapply leather conditioner and roll to soften skin. Repeat if necessary.
13.  Groom hair side with a Flokati comb or Grandi Groomer.
14.  If pelt has yellowing: Spray with diluted “Urine, Odor and Stain Remover” (dilute to 3%, 3 parts water to 1 part “Urine, Odor and Stain Remover) and place in the sun to dry or use an ultraviolet light (UVA 315 to 400 nm). Check for color change every 15 minutes.  Reapply if needed.

BLEEDERS

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pre-test. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Look for signs of pre-existing color migration.
3. Test for crocking and bleeding. Some rugs both crock and bleed.
4. Test for fiber type(s).
5. Have release of liability signed before cleaning.
6. Quote price for setting dyes before cleaning.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug.
2. If wool, silk or nylon fibers, treat entire rug front and back with DyeFix for Wool solution.
   Work in with hand brush, or other tool. Give at least a 10 minute dwell time. More if
   possible. Do Not apply DyeFix if there is pre-existing color migration.
3. If cotton, rayon or fibers, other than wool, silk or nylon, treat entire rug with the DyeFix for
   Cotton solution. Work in with hand brush or other tool. Give at least a 10 minute dwell
   time. More if possible. Do Not apply DyeFix if there is pre-existing color migration.
4. If wool, silk or nylon, treat entire rug, front and back with AntiDye solution. Apply heavily,
   work in with hand brush or other tool.
5. If cotton, rayon or fibers, other than wool, silk or nylon, treat entire rugs with Dye Release
   solution work in with hand brush or other tool.
6. If wool, silk or nylon, apply Navajo Rug Cleaner solution to entire rug front and back. Work
   in with hand brush or other tool.
   If cotton, rayon or fibers, other than wool, silk or nylon, treat entire rug with Cotton Rug
   Shampoo solution, front and back. Work in with hand brush or other tool.
7. If wool, silk or nylon, rinse with cold, clear water, both sides, until water runs clear. If color
   still migrates, apply more AntiDye solution and rinse again. Repeat if necessary.
8. If cotton, rayon, or fibers, other than wool, silk, or nylon, rinse with cold, clear water, both
   sides, until water runs clear. If color still migrates apply more Dye Release solution and
   rinse again. Repeat if necessary.
9. Squeegee, roll, wring out, extract or centrifuge to remove excess water. If using
   centrifuge, make sure to completely cover rug with absorbent cotton towels or quilts
   to prevent dye transfer (tattooing) during spinning.
10. Speed dry. Because dyes can possibly migrate during drying, flat dry on cotton towels or
    quilts. Place on top of two or more layers of cotton material, add two more layers of
    cotton material on top of rug, with airflow (without blowing off the cotton material).
    Use heat, dehumidification, or other method to speed dry.
11. Groom pile and comb fringes.
12. If the rug pile dries stiff, (silk and rayon), apply Silky Soft solution lightly and groom in.
    Groom against the pile lay then turn around and groom with the primary and
    secondary pile lay direction.

Braided Rugs

 

 Cautions:

1. Pre-inspect entire rug for splits and dimensional stability.
2. If damaged, repair before cleaning. Quote repair costs before cleaning.
3. If the core of the braid is made of paper, the paper will buckle and may bleed into the face
   fibers when wet cleaned. Get a written release before cleaning.
4. If cores are paper, low moisture clean with an upholstery tool. Do not get the paper wet.
5. Check for color fastness. High potential for bleeding.
6. Note on paperwork if rug does not lay flat.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug. Do not use a tumble duster or other aggressive dusting tool. Air dust or
   vacuum only.
2. Spray with diluted rug soure to stabilize dyes on both sides.
3. Pre-spray with Fringe Pre Treatment (Sublime) if oily soil is present.
4. Shampoo with LST on both sides. Rug is reversible.
5. Fresh water rinse top and bottom ‘no squeegees’ rinse until water runs clear.
   A. Extract, wring out, roll or centrifuge to remove excess water.
   B. If rug is dimensionally stable, run through flatbed washer with brushes. But If not
   stable, no brushes.
6. Speed dry, do not hang to dry. Flat dry with air movers on floor or rack.

Before using a new shampoo brush on carpet or rugs, breaking-in the brush is required to prevent possible damage to the carpet itself.

Here is the correct way to do it; Mount the new shampoo brush onto your floor machine. Run the brush on rough, unfinished concrete. Run DRY for about 15 minutes, making sure that the brush fill takes on a slight set or lean.

Breaking-in the brush will remove burrs and reduce drag. Rinse off the shampoo brush to remove burrs and soil. If your shampoo brush has a center glide, remove it before breaking-in to prevent damage to the glide.

Your shampoo brush is now ready for use on carpet and rugs.

Follow the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) www.cdc.gov for protocols on: how to clean and disinfect. And follow label directions on your EPA registered disinfectants.

Wear Appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE). Read and follow EPA label directions.

Clean Frequently touched surfaces. Wear disposable gloves to clean and disinfect. High touch surfaces include: Tables, doorknobs, light switches, hand railing, drawer pulls, countertops, handles, desks, phones, keyboards, toilets, faucets, sinks, faucet handles, soap pumps, buttons, etc. wash hands immediately after removing gloves.

Disinfect using EPA registered disinfectant. Follow label instructions.

• Keep surface wet for the appropriate period of time as per label direction.
• Provide ventilation during application of disinfectant.
• Wear PPE as per label directions.
• COVID-19: Make sure to use a disinfectant that meets EPA criteria for use against SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes COVID-19. These disinfectants will appear on the EPA list N (www.cdc.gov). For example we recommend a chlorine dioxide based EPA registered virucide, BioVex/Oxine, EPA reg no.9804-1. Or use other EPA list N disinfectant.
• Fogging: Fog only disinfectants that label directions state that they may be applied by fogging, wear appropriate PPE for fogging. Evacuate everybody not wearing appropriate PPE. Fully ventilate before allowing access to the area again.
• Never make a kill claim. Do not claim sterilization, disinfection or even sanitation. Claim only, application of (name of product) as per label directions.
• For long term microbiostatic protection, apply MonoFoil D EPA registered disinfectant (EPA no. 90856-4-92366) for up to one week of 24/7 microbiostatic protection. Or apply MonoFoil M EPA registered bacteriostatic, fungistatic and algistatic finish (EPA no. 90856-2-92366) for up to 3 months of 24/7 microbiostatic protection.

Soft surfaces such as carpet, rugs and upholstery. Clean with solution appropriate for the textile. Use the warmest temperature appropriate for each item. Dry completely. Heat dry if possible. For long term microbiostatic protection apply MonoFoil D, EPA registered disinfectant (EPA no. 90856-4-92366) for up to one week of 24/7 microbiostatic protection. Or apply MonoFoil M, EPA registered bacteriostatic, fungistatic and algistatic finish (EPA no. 90856-2-92366) for up to 3 months of 24/7 microbiostatic protection.

Laundry items should be washed according to the manufactures instructions, use the warmest temperature appropriate for each item. Dry completely. Heat dry if possible. Do not shake laundry. Do not make contamination air-borne. Clean and disinfect clothes hampers. Wash hands as soon as you remove your disposable gloves. For long term microbiostatic protection apply MonoFoil D, EPA registered disinfectant (EPA no. 90856-4-92366) for up to one week of 24/7 microbiostatic protection. Or apply MonoFoil M, EPA registered bacteriostatic, fungistatic and algistatic finish (EPA no. 90856-2-92366) for up to 3 months of 24/7 microbiostatic protection.

Electronics such as tablets, touch screens, keyboards, remote controls and ATMs. Consider putting a wipeable cover on electronics. Follow manufacturers instructions for cleaning and disinfecting. If no guidance, use alcohol-based wipes or sprays containing at least 70% alcohol. If applying long term microbiostatic protection with MonoFoil D or M, lightly spray solution on surface, allow to dry, then repeat 2 or 3 more times. Or apply solution to a microfiber towel and apply to surfaces, allow to dry then repeat 2 or 3 more times. The goal is to achieve the 10 minutes of dwell time.

Workers must be trained to recognize the symptoms of COVID-19 and be provided instructions on what to do if they develop symptoms. (www.cdc,gov)

Cleaning must be performed using the proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), including fit testing, proper donning (putting on) and doffing (taking off), and how to properly dispose of used PPE.

Workers must be trained on the hazards of cleaning chemicals used in accordance with OSHA’s hazard communication standard (29 CFR 1910.1200).

Workers must comply with OSHA’s standards on blood borne pathogens (29 CFR 1910.1030), including proper disposal of regulated waste and PPE.

Make sure to check with your insurance provider to ensure that you have the proper coverage.

On-location cleaning of oriental and other fine rugs is not normally recommended. In-plant cleaning gives the rug owner a better value by improving results and protecting their investment. In-plant cleaning allows you the opportunity to correct any problems which arise during cleaning (before anyone else sees it). Often two days are required to properly clean and dry a rug. Controlled drying conditions are next to im-possible on-location and are best at an in-plant site. Specialized tools and equipment are not easily used on-location. Your in-plant facility may be a 10,000 sq. ft., fully automated washing plant or it may be your freshly cleaned driveway or garage floor. (se page 29) Whichever the case, it is still better than cleaning on-location.

In rare cases it may be necessary to clean rugs on-location (i.e. customer will not allow you to remove the rug from their site or sight). Keep in mind these additional concerns. Proper dry soil removal is go¬ing to make a mess. You may have to do it outside or cleanup afterwards. The floors must be protected from water and cleaning agents, dyes may bleed during cleaning or drying. You may need to take ex¬tra measures to ensure fast drying. You may have to return the following day to inspect results, make corrections (while explaining why this is nothing to be concerned about) and pick up drying equipment. Floor cleaning or restoration may now be required. We do not recommend on-location cleaning of rugs, as your primary mode of operation.

ON-LOCATION CLEANING

If you have to, first complete a thorough inspection of the rug(s). Test for colorfastness. We do not recom¬mend cleaning bleeders or other “problem” rugs on-location. Next, set up a work area. It needs to be a clean area and it also needs to be protected from any damage from your cleaning activities. Remove dry soils as best as you can on-location.
On-location rug cleaning is best accomplished with dry cleaning. For decades, rug cleaners have found the Ultra Dry System effective and satisfying for their customers. This is also a great system for cleaning rugs which cannot be immersion cleaned (i.e. cloth backed rugs & composite rugs with shrink¬age issues or rugs too large for plant and pit clean¬ing). Pre-spray the face pile and fringe with Ultra Dry Natural & Fine Fibers. Work in with hand groomer or nap brush. Allow a five to ten minute dwell time, but do not allow the rug to dry out. Reapply Ultra Dry if necessary.
Low moisture rinse the rug with Ultra Catalyst Natural & Fine Fibers solution. Mix Ultra Catalyst at 16:1 (8 oz./gal.) with warm (100° to 130°F) water. Submerse Ultra Clean Pads into the Ultra Catalyst solution and wring out excess solution with a pad squeezer. Place wrung out Ultra Clean Pad on the heaviest soiled area of the rug.

Immediately spin Ultra Clean Pad over the entire rug surface and fringe with side-to-side overlapping passes with a low speed (approximately 175 rpm) floor machine. Clean up to about 50 square feet, then flip the pad over and reclean area just covered, put aside spent Ultra Clean Pads and wring out a new pad for further cleaning. Do not reuse soiled pads until laundered. Never place soiled pads back into Ultra Catalyst solution, always use “new” clean pads. Never run pads on dry rugs.

Comb out fringes with a fringe brush, groom the face and speed dry the rug with air movers. If fringes need more attention, use Fringe Cleaner and /or Fringe Whitener.

© 2017 Chem Max Corporation. All rights reserved.

CLOTHES MOTHS & CARPET BEETLES

Carpet pests can be a real problem. A pest infestation can put you out of business, or you
can make a lot of extra money, preventing infestations. Do nothing, and the former will
happen, it’s just a matter of time, do something proactive, and the latter will happen. Just
imagine how your client feels when she finds holes in her cherished wool and silk rug. Imagine
how you would feel if you find holes in the rugs in your shop? Holes in your rugs, your client’s
rugs. Moths and beetles flying around your place. Do not allow this to happen!

Clothes moths and carpet beetles are surprisingly common. Clothing moths are reportedly on
the rise worldwide. Carpet beetles are one of the most common household pests. Here is a
list of the top clothes moth cities in the U.S. (study from 2021).

#1. New York
#2. Boston
#3. Philadelphia
#4. Cincinnati
#5. Dallas
#6. Chicago
#7. Portland
#8. Atlanta
#9. Los Angeles
#10. Minneapolis
#11. Orlando
#13. Santa Fe
#14. Denver
#15. Pittsburgh

As you can see, these carpet pests are everywhere. How do we get rid of them?

The good news is, these pests are dirty players. They do not like clean! Your best defense
against them is to have clean rugs! Studies show that clothing moths will die of starvation on
clean wool. Moths seem to love urine contaminated wool. They are hungry for protein rich
soils, like dead skin, body sweat, amino acids, insect carcasses, milk, coffee, and beef gravy.
The moth larva (caterpillar) require vitamin B to survive and clean wool does not provide it,
but dirty wool can. This is an important reason to have protein fiber rugs cleaned on a
regularly scheduled basis. And includes blends too, i.e. wool and rayon etc. Vacuuming often is also very important. Vacuuming removes food source soils, eggs, and maybe a moth or two.
It is important to vacuum dark undisturbed places like under furniture, in closets, even under
the rug and baseboard edges.

Placing rugs in storage is where the most pest damage can occur, if not done properly. Talk
about dark and undisturbed places. Always wash rugs and treat rugs with Resist Wool
Preservative before storing. Make sure to wrap the rugs for protection, but never use
wrapping material that will trap moisture as mold and dry rot can occur. Place a rug pest
detector in the storage or a nearby area. Check every month and replace pheromone refill
every 90 days. You should consider giving or selling a Rug Pest Detector to every customer
that has a wool, silk or leather rug. Blends using protein fibers too. The Rug Pest Detector
traps all four of the rug pests; case making clothes moth, webbing clothes moth, black carpet
beetle and the varied carpet beetle. You need one in your shop to protect your rug inventory
and your reputation. The cost is low and the value is very high. Guard against other pests, like
mice, too. Keep the storage area cool and dry.

What should I do if I get a rug with moth or beetle damage? Rule number one, Do Not allow
the rug into your vehicle or shop until you can inspect and treat it. Recommend that the client
call a professional pest control company to inspect their home and its contents. Recommend
that all protein-based items and furnishings be inspected, cleaned and treated. Do not forget,
leather furniture, clothing, stuffed toys, wool blankets and quilts, feather pillows, taxidermy
trophy mounts, etc. If you find eggs, silk webbing or casings & cocoons, larva (caterpillars)
and/or adult moths, you must isolate the contaminated rug from other rugs. Most put the
rolled up rug into lay flat ducting and seal both ends. Work with a professional pest control
company to apply the correct pesticide to the rug(s). We manufacture a minimum risk
pesticide which is EPA (FIFRA) exempt. So if allowed in your state, you can apply Resist
PreTreatment to decontaminate the rug yourself. Follow the label directions to kill moths
(eggs, larva, pupa and adults), odor-causing bacteria, carpet beetles, bed bugs, fleas and
spiders. Now that the rug is decontaminated, it is time for the washing!

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pre-test. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Do Not allow pest contaminated rugs into your vehicle or shop. Decontaminate outdoors.
3. Inspect for missing fibers, holes, and weak areas. And look on both front and back. Quote
for repairs before washing.
4. If leather or vinyl strips are sewn on back edges, remove to reach areas where pests and
their eggs hide. Recommend that they not be replaced.
5. Insist in requiring moth proofing treatment to protect you shop and other rugs. Quote cost.
6. Have release of liability signed before washing.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug. Spend extra care to thoroughly remove as much dry soil and dead insect & pest
matter as possible.
2. If no color issues, wet out with cool, clear water front and back.
3. Apply Triple Deodorizing Rug Shampoo solution to entire rug including fringes, front and
back.
4. Work in with a hand brush, shampooer or other method, front and back, including fringes.
5. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 20 minutes.
6. Flush rinse rug with cool, clear water front and back, until rinse water runs clear.
7. (A) Squeegee, roll, wring out, extract or centrifuge to remove excess water.
(B) If using a flat bed washer or other system, run through as normal.
8. Apply Resist Wool Preservative solution to entire rug front and back. Follow label
directions. Wear appropriate PPE. Must completely cover and penetrate rug. Work in
with hand brush or other tool.
9. Clean up and rinse off all tools, sprayers, floors and shoes to remove Resist Wool
Preservative residue.
10. Speed dry. Use heat drying if possible. High heat will kill microorganisms, eggs, larva, pupa
and adults and not just rug pests but other types too. How hot is hot enough? The
following is recommended; 105°F for 4 hours, 120°F for 1 hour or 150°F for 30
minutes. Remember this needs to penetrate all the through the rug, so you need a
little more time for heating up, then cooling down.
11. Groom rug and comb out fringes.

Colorfastness Testing

Much of the instruction on testing for colorfastness is outdated, or just outright wrong. We are not going to spend much time on how to do it wrong, but, one thing overlooked is the differentiation between color bleeding and crocking. It is important to know the difference so that we know how to deal with the color migration issues.

Crocking test:

Choose the cleaning agent that you intend to use. Use it at the dilution and temperature that you intend to clean with. Choose the color area that you want to test. Remember that each different color is a different dye, so, you need to test each suspect color. Apply solution to the rug fibers, work in to pile. Use a dry white cotton terry towel to rub area for about 10 seconds. Check towel for dye transfer. Discount soil and fiber fragments. Judge for heavy, medium, light or no crocking.
Crocking of color is from loose unbound dye. These dyes are not at the dye site, they are in the wrong place, often at the surface of the fiber. Crocking dyes need to be removed. They need to go down the drain. Washing with high water volume and good surfactant action will often accomplish this. However, some dyes can find a home in adjacent fibers, especially lighter colored fibers with more open dye sites available. AntiDye can be used to block the dye sites from these crocking dyes, making sure that all flush off the rug and go down the drain. AntiDye performs best on wool, silk, & nylon fibers and on low water volume washing systems. Dye Release can be used to join the dye molecules together so that they become too large to fit into the dye sites or enter into the amorphous areas of fibers. Thus crocking dyes flow off the rug with the rinse water. Dye Release performs best on cellulosic fibers including rayon. And on high water volume washing systems.

Bleeding test:

Choose the cleaning agent that you intend to use. Use it at the dilution and temperature that you intend to clean with. Choose the color area that you want to test. Remember that each different color is a different dye, so, you need to test each suspect color, apply solution to the rug fibers, work into pile. Use a dry white cotton terry towel to cover the damp test area. Use a minimum of two layers of towels. This is a case where more is better. Weight down towels to ensure complete contact between the damp test fibers and the dry towels.

Alternative method:

Use a spring clamp to hold towels in place. This way you can move, or even roll up rugs that may be in the way. Leave towels in place, do not move towels until completely dry. Bleeding dyes will move during the final stage of drying. This usually takes about 24 hours. After drying is complete, remove towels and check for dye transfer. Discount soil and fiber fragments. Judge for heavy, medium, light, or no bleeding.

Bleeding dyes occur because the dyes are weakly bonded (or not bonded at all) to the fibers and or dye sites. These dyes are where they should be and we want to keep them. We just need to bond them in place better and stronger. We use mordants to bond the dyes to the fiber. With acid dyes (most common dye type for wool, silk and nylon) mordants form a strong covalent bond that can last for the entire life of the fiber. Dye Fix For Wool or Sure Color Stabilizer can be used to set acid dyes. On cellulosic fibers that do not use acid dyes, Dye Fix For Cotton can be applied to set dyes.

Caution: do not use mordants on fibers that have color bleeding damage, as it will be
more difficult to remove colors from the migrated dye.

Color fastness and testing for it is very important. Color is one of, if not the most important, feature in attracting people into liking and buying a rug. Retaining the colors of a rug is one of the most important parameters of rug care.

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Complete pre-inspection form and photograph rug. Note all pre-Existing conditions, including:
2. Susceptible to dimensional distortion.
3. Susceptible to shrinkage.
4. Seams may become more noticeable or even peak due to shrinkage.
5. Inspect for seam failure.
6. Advise customer that the backing will likely shrink and have them sign a release of liability
   waiver.
7. Get customers approval for seam repairs.
8. If the rug has natural fibers in the backing, consider stay-tacking and include in cost of
   cleaning.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Air dust or vacuum, do not run through tumble or strap duster.
2. Wet out rug with cold, clear water or other appropriate solution I.E. Anti Dye, Rug Soure
   Fringe Pre Treatment, etc.
3. Apply LST solution or other fiber specific shampoo over entire rug, top pile only. Avoid
   wetting out back.
4. Work in with hand brush, shampooer or Cimex.
5. Flush top of rug with water and squeegee or use weighted roller to remove contaminants.
6. If using a flatbed washer, run through with top rinse jets only
7. Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract, centrifuge or use other method to remove excess water.
8. Groom rug.
9. Do NOT hang to dry.
10. Lay face-up. Speed dry with air overs, in dry room.

Vacuum cleaning is valuable as maintenance cleaning system. However, we recommend a more effective system for fine rug care. But if you are to use it, here’s how: Use a clean floor or place rug on tyvex or visqueen plastic. Vacuum the face first. Move slowly in all four cardinal directions. This means that the rug gets eight passes if you are doing it correctly. Roll back the rug and sweep or vacuum up the dust on the floor. Place the rug face down and vacuum as above; eight passes slow and deliberate. Roll back and sweep up the mess. Place rug face up and vacuum the face pile again as above. Repeat this process again if you can see dry soil at the base of the yarns or dirt and dust is still coming out. You may want to test by hanging or lifting the rug and whipping it a few times to see if more dust comes out. Remember that a vacuum is only about 2% efficient, so you may be vacuuming and flipping the rug a dozen times if you want to get all of the dust and dirt out. Make sure that you use a good performing commercial vacuum cleaner. A beater bar or stiff beater bar type brush is a big plus. Some cleaners modify their vacuum by replacing the brushes, replacing them with beater bars improve performance. Keep the vacuum at top operating performance by keeping filters clean, replacing belts as needed (often) and emptying or replacing bags very often. Remember that air must be able to get through the filter bag to remain effective so replace or empty when it becomes 1/2 full. Some cleaners use a pile lifter in place of or in combination with a vacuum cleaner. A pile lifter does not employ a beater bar but it has a superior power and pile grooming ability. Again use slow and deliberate passes in all four cardinal directions. Old fashioned rug beating (i.e. Rug Whip) valuable as a deep imbedded dry soil remover. Old fashioned rug beating with the rug hung up and hand beat with a rug whip works, yes, it is hard work and it is very slow, but it works. Should you beat the face or the back of the rug? Beating the face of a hanging rug is more effective at removing soil as it drives the rug away from the soil. So always start with the face pile side and finish with the back side. It is recommended that technicians finish by vacuuming (slow and deliberate in all four cardinal directions) to remove soils driven to the surface. Modern portable rug beater (i.e. Badger) Tools and equipment are labor saving devices. Using the right tool helps you to get the job done faster and better. Lay the rug on a grid rack face down and beat the back of the rug first. This will drive the soils into the grid rack. Flip it face up and vacuum the face pile as beating forces the soils to the surface where vacuum cleaning (slow and deliberate in all four cardinal directions) can remove them. For weak or damaged rugs and small or light weight rugs, overlay tyvex on rugs and beat through the tyvex protective cover. Use a vacuum attachment for dust control on your rug beater so that you and your employees do not have to breath in that harmful nasty dust. Air dusting (i.e. dust storm tool) high pressure air can blow away even the finest of dry paticles in a dense piled oriental rug. A commercial air compressor supplies the power to force air through the yarns, carrying away the particles and dust. Start by placing the rug face down on a grid rack and dust the back first, you will know you are done as the clouds of dust subside. Then flip the rug over and do the face. Again the clouds of dust departing will let you know when you are done, vacuuming is not required. For those who do not have the dust storm tools and air compressor, small rugs can be air dusted by clamping one end to one or more air movers. By adjusting the speed settings, you can get the rug to flap back and forth, thereby air dusting the rug. Star wheel dusters (rug cage) This is a rug tumbler employed to shake out dust. It works great if you can find one. In plant dusting (i.e Moore Duster) the ultimate in ease and speed is the in-plant soilseparator or the Moore Duster. Simply feed rugs in on one side, and they come out the otherside clean. What about extremely heavily soiled rugs? Run them through again, it only takes a few minutes. Most technicians run the rug face down to beat the back to knock the soils down and out of the rug, vacuuming is not required. You may notice that the speed of cleaning increases wth each method as listed above. Likewise the cost of each method increases, showing perhaps again that time is money. The results from each method is another story. Likely the owner of anyone of these tools will believe and tell you that their tool works best. Most will find, given the opportunity to work with each tool, that they all work well when used properly. Properly used means not only following the manufactures directions but also giving each rug enough time for complete processing and removal of dry soils. This is in complete contrast to using a vacuum cleaner, which is not adequate for removing imbedded harmful dry soils. So choose your weapon, but whichever you choose, use it correctly and take the time to do it throughly. It will be time well spent to protect your customers investment and you will find that you will have fewer problems and complaints so you can complete the washing process.

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.

2. Possibility of shrinkage (more felting).

3. Do not over agitate, especially in one given area.

4. Possible texture damage and color removal.

5. Look for thin areas, where a hole can form from heavy agitation or high water pressure.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Air dust or vacuum only. Do not send through the duster.

2. Lightly spray entire rug with Sublime.

3. Work Sublime in with hand brush, do not over agitate.

4. Apply diluted LST over entire rug.

5. Work LST in with hand brush. Do not over agitate.

6. Rinse entire rug with cold clear water and squeegee off contaminants while flushing.

7. (a) Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract, or centrifuge or use other system to remove excess water.
(b) If using centrifuge, make sure to layer with thick pad to prevent dye stamping and dimpling.
(c) If using flatbed washer, run with brushes up.

8. Flat dry on floor or rack.

Cautions:

 

1. Always inspect and pretest. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing conditions. 

2. Flokati rugs usually yellow or oxidize over a period of time. 

3. Flokatis are never white. Photograph with a white sheet of paper to show the degree of yellowing in a “before” photo. 

4. Check squareness of rug. Does it lay flat? 

5. These rugs lack dimensional stability and have a tendency to get longer and narrower each time they are cleaned. 

6. Rug face can become flat and matted, document this damage. 

 

Cleaning procedures:

 

1. Do not put through duster. 

2. Air dust or beat face of rug with stick in dry room attached to a pole, or turn rug upside down and two or four people hold each corner and shake. 

3. Spray rug with Sublime if oily soil is present. 

4. Wet out rug with clear, cool water. 

5. Shampoo entire rug with diluted LST using Cimex, shampooer, hand brush or other

method. 

6. Rinse entire rug with fresh water and squeegee off soil while rinsing. 

7. A. If using a flat bed washer, run with brushes up, no soap. Only fresh water
   B. Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract, or centrifuge to remove excess water,

 

8. Comb thoroughly with a flokati comb. 

9. Dry flat, face down. Do not hang dry, Heat drying is okay. 

10. If rug yellows, DO NOT use bleach (bleach with change color), spray rug with 3%

hydrogen peroxide, groom in, dry face down. 

11. Comb thoroughly again after completely dry using a flokati comb. 

 

Alternative method: for small rugs:

 

1. Can be washed in Milnor or other commercial washing machine using a short cycle, cold

water, and 5oz LST. 

2. Dry and groom as stated above.

Some rugs are uncleanable. However we can often clean the worst of the problem rugs with dry cleaning solvents. We use the same methods used to clean “dry clean only” furniture, drapery and garments. First complete a through inspection of the rug(s). Document all pre-existing damage, and consider having a Release Of Liability form signed. Dry soil removal is required but, a weak fragile rug may not survive your normal dusting or vacuuming procedures if you consider the rug too fragile for normal dusting, you might want to utilize one of the following methods: Use a vacuum only suction tool with no agitator to gently vacuum both sides by hand. Or use an air compressor nozzle to gently blow dust and dirt from rug, or use a combination of the two. After appropriate dusting, pre-spray the entire rug with undiluted Sublime. Pretest colors of course, but because Sublime contains no water, most colors should be safe. However some crocking may occur, but cleaning is still possible when rubbing, brushing and other agitation is avoided. If crocking is not a problem gentle brushing in Sublime is advisble. Make sure to pretreat fringes as well. Sublime will improve results over simple dry cleaning alone. Set up dry cleaning machine (i.e. Kleen-Rite, the Ultimate by U.S. Products, etc.) Fill solution tank with Dry Side Cleaner and extract rug with spray and vacuum passes. Make sure to use 50% over lap to avoid uneven cleaning. Use slow and easy tooling passes for gentle yet through cleaning. If the rug is reversible, dry clean both sides. Avoid using “Mineral Spirits or Odorless Mineral Spirits” as these products can lead to rapid resoiling complaints. Dry Cleaning Considerations: Although no water is in the rug, use air movers or fans to speed the evaporation of solvents. Do Not Use Heat to dry. Dry Clean only in a well ventilated areas. Follow manufacture’s directions (both equipment and solutions). Ventilate the dry cleaning machine exhaust to the outside or use outside. Wear required personal protective equipment. Do not dry clean near open flame, electrical arking, or near smokers, keep fire extinguishers near by. Ensure that equipment is properly grounded. Avoid use on rugs with adhesive (i.e hand tufted, tufted, fusion bonded, back coated, etc.)

Dry Cleaning can be a great tool in your arsenal of cleaning methods, allowing you to clean rugs that others turn down or worse, damage. Some complain that dry cleaning does not remove water based spots and soils, but tricks of the trade come into play here. Pre-treating with Sublime helps to remove water based soils, and improves cleaning results. Experienced dry cleaners know that water based soils often wick up during dry cleaning just like they do in wet cleaning. Upon post cleaning inspection, spots and soils will often wipe off easily with a damp cotton towel. For best results use diluted LST (8oz per gallon) solution on a wrung out towel to wipe off wicked spots and soils, some cleaners, damp wipe the entire rug pile with LST Solution. DO NOT OVER WET! Towel dry to finish, avoid over aggresive agitation. Fringes may require more cleaning attention. See ” How Do I Clean Fringes.”

Even the most fragile textiles can respond well to dry cleaning. Silks do not lose their hand and bleeders behave and hold onto their colors, fragile rugs survive cleaning and old rugs live on. Dry cleaning is more expensive, and customers are accustomed to paying more for it. Many cleaners charge in the $10.00 to $20.00 per square foot rate for custom dry cleaning. Note also that applying a moisture barrier like Flurosolve is a good idea on those moisture sensitive rugs. Flurosolve will help protect the rug from water based soils and spills. Make sure to offer Flurosolve on every “Dry Clean Only” rugs as clients will appreciate the added protection.

Alternative Dry Cleaning method: Absorbent compound As noted above, some rugs will crock or bleed with solvent only cleaning. Absorbent compound may be an option. Animal skin rugs and rugs made with leather may also be good candidtes for absorbent compound, and some people like this method from some unknown reason. Complete a through inspection of the rug(s). Document all pre-existing damage, and consider having a Release Of Liability form signed. Dust or remove dry soil as noted above in paragraphs 3 and 4. After dusting, we would normally pre-treat the rug with a cleaning solution, but this may not be an option on difficult crocking and bleeding dyes. If however water based solutions will not cause problems, as with most animal skins and most leather, pre-treat with your LST solution of 5 ounces per gallon of warm water (100 degrees f to 115 degrees f). Spray apply lightly, Do Not Overwet. Work in solution with gentle agitation. Allow dwell time 3 to 5 minutes, then apply your dry compound (host, drymatic, capture, etc.) follow manufactures directions. After drying, throughly and meticulously vacuum up all dry compound and soil.

Cotton fringes are often the most difficult part of the rug to clean. Many cleaners end up damaging the cotton by using oxidizers (i.e. hydrogen peroxide, chlorine bleach, sodium perborate, or other oxygen bleaches) to clean the fringes.

Always pre-inspect for this damage by pulling on the fringe in several areas. Also look for signs of bleeding, browning, physical damage, old tea dye, mold and dry rot. Some cleaners charge an additional (i.e. $2.00 to $7.00 per foot) fee for fringe cleaning. Remember that many believe, the finer the fringe, the finer the rug. So, the finer the fringe cleaning, the finer the cleaner. Clean the rug first. Often, good cleaning on the entire rug will result in nice clean fringes. To improve your odds of getting clean fringes with your first cleaning, pretreat the fringes with Fringe Cleaner. To prevent browning, immediately after cleaning spray with diluted Rug Soure, comb out fringes with a fringe brush and speed dry.

Sometimes fringes will need more attention after normal rug cleaning. Use a product designed specifically for cotton fringe cleaning. Avoid products using oxidation, the majority of products out there have oxygen producing chemicals in them – do not use these products – they permanently damage rugs. Proper chemistry for cotton will use reduction, the exact opposite of oxidation. Mix up a small amount of Fringe Cleaner with warm water (100�f to 120� f ) as per label directions. Mix up only what you will use as unused solution should be discarded after four hours. Label directions are as follows:

INSTRUCTIONS

1. After inspecting fringes, dust, brush vacuum or blow-out with compressed air.
2. Pretest in small inconspicuous area.
3. Pretreat oily, greasy, or heavily soiled fringes with Sublime or other anhydrous solvent prespray to break oily bonds.
4. Dilute Fringe Cleaner at 4 to 1 (32oz./gal) with warm water.
5. Carefully apply to fringe, knots, and kilim strip only – avoid face fibers. Use paint brush, sponge, upholstery brush, or other application device. Agitate by tamping or brushing as construction allows.
6. Hot water extract with clear, clean, hot water using a fringe cleaning tool or other extraction device. Use extra vacuum only, passes.
7. Treat clean fringe with diluted Rug Soure to prevent browning and to accelerate the cleaning action of Fringe Cleaner.
8. Comb out fringe and dry as fast as possible.

Heavily soiled fringes, especially those with oily, greasy, parking lot or kitchen oils should be pre-treated with Sublime to liquefy oils and break oily bonds, spray apply or brush on Sublime to fringe, knots and kilim strip. Since Sublime is an anhydrous solvent, it should not be damaging to rug pile yarns, but avoid pile yarns so you do not end up with a cleaner end on your rug. Allow one or two minutes of dwell time, then use one of the techniques listed above to complete cleaning. If fringes still look bad after cleaning and drying, Fringe Whitener can make them look better and whiter.

Fringe Whitener covers over discolorations without damaging the cotton fibers. Some rugs have fringes that are henna, antique or tea dyed.

Sometimes this color is removed during cleaning. You can replace this color loss with Tea Dye, or use it when white fringes are not wanted by your customer

Some rugs have wool or silk fringes. Some hand made rugs made in more recent times are using synthetic yarns. As mentioned above, often good rug cleaning will take care of the fringes too. But when very soiled, pre – treating the fringes with a solution appropriate for the fiber type is a good practice.

For wool and silk use Ultra Dry Neutral pH, simply spray on fringe and groom in. Allow five minutes of dwell time. Then clean as normal. For synthetic fringes, use a pre-spray solutions appropriate for the fiber. Often cleaners find Ultra Dry Original to be a great fringe cleaner for synthetic fibers.

CAUTIONS:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage
   including;
2. Check for abrash and document.
3. Test for crocking.
4. Test for color bleeding. Quote for setting dyes.
5. Check for fading. Look at the base of knots and compare to colors on the back. Quote for color repair and ultraviolet light protection with Fluorosolve.
6. Look for white knots. Quote for repair.
7. Look for yellowing or other color change. Look for tea dye.
8. Inspect for previous repairs.
9. Look and measure for irregular shape. Look for buckling, ripples, curled edges and holes.
10.  Check for moth & beetle damage. Quote for moth proofing and repairs.
11.  Look for physical damage. Quote for repairs.
12.  Look for urine contamination, odors, salt residues, dry rot, color loss or bleeding, yellowing. Quote for treatments.
13. Look for water damage, dry rot, mildew odor, mold growth, water stains, shrinkage, and or color bleeding.
14. Inspect fringes. Damaged or discolored? Look at Kilim strip. Check if it is an applied fringe. Check for tea dye. Quote for repair or replacement, or whitening or tea dying.
15. Check for special cleaning considerations: Heavy soil, odors, animal hair, soap residue, pH correction, redox balance, smoke damage, pet hair/ body oils, difficult stains I.E. paint, wax, ink, etc. Charge accordingly.
16. Check wool for damage. Is it dried out? Is it brittle and are fibers breaking? Are the colors dull? Is the hand harsh? Quote for revitalizing the wool with Wool Rug Revitalizer.

 

Cleaning Procedures:

1. Dust rug.
2. If no color issues, wet out rug with cold, clear water.
3. Apply diluted “Oriental Rug Shampoo” to entire rug including fringes, front and back.
4. Work in with shampooer, hand brush or other method, front and back, including fringes.
5. Allow a dwelling time of 20 to 30 minutes for the Oriental Rug Shampoo to break down and digest soil and stains.
6. Flush rinse rug with cold, clear water front and back, until rinse water is clear.
7. (A) Squeegee, role, ring out, extract or centrifuge to remove excess water.
   (B) If using a flatbed washer or other system, run through as normal.
8. Straighten and comb fringes,
9. Groom entire rug with the pile lay.
10. Speed dry.

NOTE: If colors are migrating add a rinse cycle of dye release solution to rinse away
color contamination.

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pre-test. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Hand loomed rugs have very weak construction. Just one cleaning, if not properly done,
can ruin the rug. In fact, many do not make it past manufacturing without needing
repairs. Look for glue around the edges.
3. Be careful when moving and handling the rug as it may come apart. Use two people or
more if possible.
4. Inspect for physical damage. Look for areas that have pulled away from each other.
5. Look for missing pile & “tufts”. Look for holes and voids.
6. Examine side and end cords. May be loose or weak. Be careful not to damage them as they
do not have much to attach themselves to.
7. Avoid aggressive agitation as it will likely pull out face pile yarns. Turn down air pressure
when air dusting as high pressure may blow out face pile yarns. Do not use vacuum
with brush agitation. Use suction only. Hand brush only. Do not pressure wash. Be
gentle.
8. inspect for pilling and fusing as not much is holding fiber filaments in place. A light
adhesive coating may be on the back so be careful not to wash this thin coating away.
9. Have a release of liability signed before touching.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug. Use air dusting or vacuum with suction only. Be careful not to damage rug.
2. If no color issues, wet out with cool, clear water. Be careful no not damage rug with high
water pressure.
3. Apply Oriental Rug Shampoo to entire rug front and back. Be careful to not rip the rug
when flipping over.
4. Work in diluted shampoo with a hand brush. Be careful not to dislodge face fibers, or push
off side cords. Try not to scrub off backing adhesive.
5. Allow a dwell time of 20 to 30 minutes for the Oriental Rug Shampoo to break down and
digest soils and stains.
6. Flood rinse rug with cool, clear water. Front and back until water runs clear. Be careful not
to rip rug when flipping over.
7. (A) Squeegee, role, wring out, extract or centrifuge to remove excess water, be careful to
not damage rug with any aggressive agitation.
(B) If running through a flat bed washer or other system, run with brushes up.
8. Groom pile with pile lay. Be careful to not brush out pile yarns or push off side cords or
ends.
9. Speed dry. Be careful to not rip rug when moving to the dry room. You can hang dry, but,
make sure to use spring clips in several areas to prevent rug from flapping too much
which may damage the rug. It may be wise to flat dry.
Note: if colors are migrating add a rinse cycle of Dye Release solution to rinse away
color contamination.

Cautions: 

1. Check for latex odor and advise customer that it will not come out.
2. Stenciling. Grin the face pile and look for stencil ink on the primary backing at color
   change areas. Look on the back of the rug. Many times the red or blue stencil will have
   already bled into the secondary backing. Turn down rug or surface clean only.
3. Color run. Some rugs will be susceptible to color bleeding. Test for colorfastness, both
   crocking and bleeding.
4. Check squareness of rug. Is it misshaped?
5. Never fold or crease a hand tufted rug, especially when wet, as it will leave permanent
   marks or even delamination.
6. Avoid aggressive agitation or heavy rollers as they may delaminate the rug.
7. The latex used decays over time and leaves a powdery residue on the customer’s floor.
   this decay will make the rug limber and weak. Look for delamination.
8. If cloth backing is delaminated from the foundation or the latex is powdery, quote cost and
   get approval to replace cloth backing and re-latex.
9. Look for pulled tufts and voids.
10. The fringe may be unglued: hems can come un-sewn or un-glued. Quote repairs before
    cleaning.
11. Talk about the staining and soil on the backing, since the backing is not seen, we will
    clean but, we have low expectations on stains and watermark removal.
12. Make customer sign a release.

Cleaning procedures: 

1. Air dust or use a vacuum only. Vacuum thoroughly. Do not put through a duster or tumble dust.
2. Spray with Sublime including fringes, if oily soil is present.
3. Wet out rug with clear, cool water. If the rug fails the crocking test, wet out with diluted
   Anti Dye. If it fails the bleeding test, wet out with Dye Release Solution.
4. Apply diluted LST over entire face pile of rug. Do not apply to backing.
5. Work in with hand brush if the rug is weak, or use shampooer, cimex, or other method on
   fringe and face pile only, not on backing.
6. Rinse rug with clean water front and back.
7. Squeegee, extract or centrifuge to remove excess water.
8. If using a flat bed washer, run through as normal.
9. Groom pile and fringes.
10. Flat dry, face down, with air movers blowing across the back to speed up the drying
    Process.

 

Optional method:

Surface clean with L.S.T. (See “How do I clean moisture sensitive rugs”).

Cautions:

1. Always inspect, test and photograph.

2. Note all pre-existing damage.

3. Very susceptible to browning. Avoid high pH and hot water.

4. Weak structural integrity. Look for dry rot. Clean gently.

5. Look for watermarks and rings. Look for “ghost stains” that may appear after cleaning.

6. Check for shrinkage, very likely.

7. If latexed on back, test for damage or failure.

8. A release must be signed. Note on form and inform, customer that, browning, watermarking, rings or stains may not come out.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Air dust or vacuum only.

2. Lightly spray entire rug with Sublime.

3. Wet out rug with cool, clear water

4. Apply diluted Problem Reducing Rug Shampoo over entire rug.

5. Shampoo rug with rotary, Cimex, hand brush or other method depending on construction, to work Problem Reducing Rug Shampoo into rug on both sides.

6. Rinse rug with cold clear water until rinse water is clear.

7. (a) Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract, or centrifuge or use other system to remove excess water.
(b) If using a flatbed washer, or other system, run through with brushes up.

8. Dry rug face down on cotton towels or quilt.

9. Place air movers to speed dry, blowing across the back of the rug.

10. Groom pile.

11. For wicked-up stains or watermarks, use 3% hydrogen peroxide, apply heavily to stained area and feather into surrounding areas.

12. Optional: if needed, apply tea dye to even out final look.

 

 

 

 

 

After inspection and dusting the rug, it should be wetted out with a pre-conditioning solution. This is especially important with wool fibers as they naturally resist moisture and do not wet out evenly without dwell time. Solvents also are needed to break down oily bonds and reliquefy dried out oil base soils. Make a solution of 4 & 3/4 gallons of warm water (75 degrees to 100 degrees) to 32 ounces (1/4 gallon) of Sublime ( or use 6 ounces per gallon for smaller batches). spray entire rug including fringes, using a #06 spray jet. Apply evenly to wet out rug. Flip rug over and lightly spray back. Now the rug is ready for your main cleaning solution. LST is your best choice for most rugs. Mix LST at 8 ounces per gallon of warm water (75 degrees to 100 degrees) and add to the tank of your shampoo machine. If available, you will find that a Cimex machine will be superior to a single disk machine for cleaning most rugs. Start on the back and include the fringes, shampooing the rug evenly. Flip over and shampoo the front evenly including the fringes. We need to consider a few side points here. New shampoo brushes must be broken in before use on rugs. See box entitled “Breaking In New Brushes”. One must know how operate a single disk “swing” machine, if you do not, you will need some hands-on training before cleaning a customer’s rug. You cannot learn from reading or watching, it is much like learning how to ride a bike, you just have to have hands-on experience. Choice of cleaning solution: While we already note that LST is most often your best choice, sometimes you may want to use a speciality solution. Make sure to use a product designed for the fiber type that you are cleaning. Most carpet cleaning products are designed for synthetic fibers and are not appropriate for most Oriental and fine quality rugs. Wool Rug Shampoo is slightly alkaline and is designed for cleaning heavily soiled wool rugs. Wool Rug Shampoo is a more aggressive cleaner to LST. Silk Rug Shampoo is designed for cleaning silk, it is milder than LST. The pH is lower to be just right for silk. Triple Deodorizing Shampoo is designed to clean and deodorize rugs, including those with urine contamination. It is safe on all natural fibers. Keep in mind that urine does damage some fibers and dyes. This is pre-existing damage from urine, not cleaning. After, shampooing, a through cold water rinse is required. Flood rinse the entire rug with a water hose. If the rug is extremely soiled, a power washer maybe employed, use cold water and adjust pressure to 300psi-400psi. Pressure wash rug face pile and do not forget the fringes, as power washing is a great tool for cleaning them. Use a Rug Squeegee or a Rug Roller to move soils, contaminates and rinse water from rug. Once you notice that no more suds are coming out, place water hose under rug to flush the back, using your rug squeegee or rug roller to move rinse water and soils away from rug.Now the rug is ready for the flat bed washers. (if you do not have a flat bed washing machine i.e. Moore of Mirza, use a hot water extraction unit, truckmount or portable, just leave out the hot water part and use the vacuum only. (See section on Pit Cleaning). Place rug, face side up on the washer. Make sure to set rug well beyond the pin roller to reduce yarns snags from pins, This is a two man job on all but small rugs or runners.. Adjust wash and rinse jet pressure to 300psi – 400psi. Adjust wringer pressure for maximum water extraction as practical. Use both Rug Wash Liquid and Rug Wash Powder in your machines carburetor. Fill your tank until it covers over the agitator blades. Turn agitator on. Slowly pour in the entire pail of Rug Wash Powder and continue to fill with water until tank is almost full, then add one full gallon Rug Wash Liquid and fill tank to full. Set dilution meter at 30 to 1.

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. The sewn-on fringe of some Karastans will shrink, causing the corners to curl. Quote repair cost.
3. Check the fringe and corners to make sure that they are secure.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug.
2. Spray rug with Fringe Pre Treatment (Sublime) if oily soil is present, or pre-wet with cold clear water.
3. Apply diluted Wool Rug Shampoo to entire rug, including fringes, front and back.
4. Work in with shampooer, Cimex or other method, front and back.
5. Flush rinse rug with cold, clear water, front and back, until rinse water is clear.
6. (a) Squeegee, role, ring out, extract, or centrifuge to remove excess water.
   (b) If using a flatbed washer or other system run through as normal.
7. Straighten and comb fringes.
8. Groom entire rug.
9. Speed dry.

NOTE: If colors are migrating, add a rinse cycle of Dye Release solution to rinse away color contamination.

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Note all pre-existing damage. Document and photograph
existing conditions.

2. No alkaline solutions should be used. Stay on the acid side.

3. No heat.

4. Check foundation and structure for damage and loose leather.

5. Test for color-fastness (Ink, paint, die, or marker)

6. Work quickly. Wash leather rugs fast and efficiently.

 

Cleaning procedures:

1. Do not run through strap duster or tumble duster, air dust only. Alternately, beat
with a stick, rug whip on pole, or turn rug upside down and have four people hold one
of each corner and shake.

2. After dusting, apply leather conditioner diluted (50/50) with water and work in if possible.

3. Thoroughly flush with cold, clear water.

4. Apply diluted LST solution over entire rug, if possible and shampoo in with
shampooer, hand brush, Cimex or other method.

5. Flush rinse with cold, clear water.

6. Use a weighted roller to push soil and suds off rug during rinse.

7. (a) Squeegee, role, ring out, extract, or centrifuge to remove excess water.
(b) If using a flatbed washer, place rug on padding before running through flatbed washer or other equipment. Keep pins from damaging the leather.
NO brushes. NO soap. ONLY cold, clean water.

8. Spray diluted leather conditioner (50/50 with water) over entire rug if possible. Place rug on a flexible surface, such as towels or quilt.

9. Roll in conditioner with weighted roller to soften rug.

10. Dry flat with air movers, using no heat.

11. During drying, run a weighted roller over rug to help soften the leather. Reapply diluted leather conditioner if necessary.

 Some rugs can be damaged with over wetting. Lower moisture methods can avoid problems with cellulosic rugs that are likely to brown, composite rugs that may have differential shrinkage, latex backed rugs or hand tufted which may suffer from latex migration, rugs with ink stencils which can bleed, secondary backings which can shrink or water mark and rugs which are not very soiled, so therefore not requiring deep, aggressive cleaning methods.

Bonnet cleaning with LST has proven to be a very good method for dealing with the above mentioned cleaning challenges. You can save yourself and your customer untold troubles, plus, you can make tremendous profits using LST. First complete a through inspection of the rug(s), (see “Rug Inspection”) document any preexisting damage, and consider having a release of liability form signed. Remove dry soils with your best method of dusting (see “How to Perform Dry Soil Removal”). Prepare LST solution by mixing 8 oz. of LST into each gallon of warm (100� to 115�) water, and place into a pump-up or electric sprayer with an 06 size jet. Spray apply LST solution to the entire face pile of the rug, do not over wet. Include fringes too. Using a standard rotary floor machine (175 RPM) with pad driver and bonnets or pads, or a Cimex machine, you can obtain safe and effective results. Spray your bonnet or pad with LST solution to ensure that both the carpet pile and the bonnet are lubricated with LST. Spin bonnet over the rug surface. After cleaning approximately 30 to 60 sq ft. flip bonnet over, spray with LST solution, and continue cleaning. Once both sides are soiled, use a fresh clean bonnet, spray with LST and continue cleaning. Usually only 2 or 3 bonnets will be required to clean a 9″ x 12″ rug.

Remember to get the fringes too. If you find that the rug is too wet, you may want to spin a dry bonnet over the pile surface. Be careful to not over agitate and watch for shedding, do not over dry or over agitate rug. Speed dry with air movers or place in dry room to speed drying. Fringes may require more cleaning (see “How To Clean Fringes”) after the rug has dried. Because LST will physically trap soils, post drying vacuuming is required. Simply dry vacuum the rug pile after drying is complete, use a high quality, high performance vacuum for best results.

Navajo Rugs

CAUTIONS:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Plan on color bleeding. Look for pre-existing color migration. Test all colors for crocking
   and bleeding. Look and test for ink on dark colors and side cords. Quote for DyeFix.
3. Inspected for damage. Quote for repairs.
4. Have release of liability form signed.
5. Work quickly. Wash Navajo, rugs, fast and efficiently.

Cleaning Procedures:

1. Dust rug. Air dust or vacuum only.
2. Treat entire rug, front and back with DyeFix for Wool solution. Work in with hand brush
   give at least 10 minute dwell time, more if possible. Do not apply Dyefix if there is
   pre-existing color migration.
3. Treat entire rug, front and back, with AntiDye solution. Apply heavily. Work in with hand
   brush.
4. Rinse to remove any loose dyes, rinse lightly and quickly, unless color is moving off rug.
   Reapply AntiDye solution if colors are migrating and continue to rinse.
5. Apply Navajo Rug Cleaner solution to entire rug, front and back. Work in with hand brush.
6. Rinse both sides. No squeegees. Rinse until water runs clear, if color still migrates, apply
   more AntiDye solution and rinse again. Repeat if necessary.
7. Extract, ring out, roll, or centrifuge to remove excess water. If using centrifuge, make sure
   to completely cover with absorbent cotton towels or quilts to prevent dye transfer
   (tattooing) onto rug.
8. Speed dry. Because dyes can possibly migrate during drying, flat dry on cotton towels, or
   quilts. Place on top of two or more layers of cotton material, add two or more layers of cotton material on top of rug, with air flow (without blowing off the cotton material). Use heat,
   dehumidification, or other method to speed drying.

Paint removal

Cautions:

1. Safety first. Many solvents are flammable. Ventilate and stay below the flashpoint. Avoid open flames and sparks. Wear appropriate PPE.
2. Solvents may damage carpet and rug backings, cushions and subfloors. Test to be sure that your solvent will not dissolve adhesive or other materials.
3. Some paints will not come out (epoxy paint). Carpet or rug repair may be offered as a solution. If paint is only on the tips of the pile yarns, you may be able to tip sheer the paint off. A bonded insert may fix a tufted carpet or a hand knotted rug may be rewoven.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Vacuum, dust or scrape. Remove as much dried paint as possible without damaging the carpet.
2. Apply First & Foremost to paint. Tamp in to penetrate and break up the paint. Blot with rags or disposable towels. If First & Foremost does not dissolve the paint, use a different volatile dry solvent (VDS). If you cannot find a solvent that will dissolve the paint, it will not come out. Offer your repair or replacement services.
3. Apply a small amount of Non Volatile Dry Solvent (NVDS). NVDS will not evaporate rapidly like First & Foremost so it will have the dwell time to soften and remove the paint.
4. After some dwell time, cover paint with rags or disposable towels and tamp. You can also vacuum only extract to suck out the dissolved paint. Do not use any water/rinse, vacuum only. This will get paint all over (and inside) your extraction tools, so you may want to have a paint job only tool and hose, or you will have to clean up before the next job.
5. Apply First & Foremost and vacuum only extract. Repeat until all or as much as possible is removed.
6. Apply diluted LST solution. Cover with rags or disposable towels and tamp.
7. Vacuum extract with water/rinse, thoroughly.
8. Cover area with rags or disposable towels and dry completely. Use several layers to act as a poultice to draw out the last paint residues.
9. If some color is still apparent, treat like a dye stain. Use a redox reaction to remove the color. Reduction is the safer of the two and is more likely to work. Use Low Odor Dye Stripper. Start weak and work your way up (1%, 2%, 3%, etc).
   For oxidation use Urine, Odor And Stain Remover (hydrogen peroxide). Start weak and work your way up (5 to1=2%, 4 to 1=2.4%, 3 to 1=3%, 2 to 1=4%, 1 to 1=6%, full strength=12%).

Fresh Paint Spills

When a customer calls about a fresh paint spill, advise them to pick up as much paint as possible with a spoon, and be careful not to rub it into the carpet pile. Then cover the area with plastic to prevent drying until you can get there. Water based paint can be kept damp with wet towels.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Remove excess paint.
2. Apply LST solution. Tamp and rinse, extract. Repeat as necessary.
3. Cover area with rags or disposable towels and dry completely. Use several layers to act as a poultice to draw out the last paint residues.
4. If some color is still apparent, treat like a dye stain. Use a redox reaction to remove the color. Reduction is the safer of the two and is more likely to work. Also try Low Odor Dye Stripper. Start weak and work your way up. For oxidation use hydrogen peroxide. Start weak and work your way up.

Cautions:

1. Test and inspect rug. Complete pre-inspection form and photograph rug. Note all
pre-Existing conditions, including:

2. Look for yarn slippage.

3. Document texture issues.

4. Look for yellowing and other discolorations.

5. Test for bleeding and crocking.

6. These rugs often become stiff and change texture if not washed with proper chemistry
and procedures.

7. Avoid any aggressive dusting. Do NOT air dust.

8. Must have customer sign a release of liability waiver before washing.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Gently dust or vacuum with care.

2. Wet out rug with cool water and Rayon Rug Shampoo mixed at two ounces per gallon.
Apply to both sides of rug. Allow two or three minutes of dwell time.

3. If colors/dyes crock off, apply Dye Release heavily.

4. Apply Rayon Rug Shampoo mixed at eight ounces per gallon. Apply to both sides,
including fringes.

5. Work in with rotary, Cimex, hand brush or other method, to shampoo into rug.

6. Rinse with cold, clear water until rinse water is clear.
7. Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract, centrifuge or use other method to remove as much
excess water as reasonably possible.

8. Groom pile with the primary lay of the pile.

9. Speed dry the rug. Rayon is very slow drying and some will brown or discolor during
drying. Speed dry as soon as possible. Dry upside down to prevent browning to the face.
If hanging to dry, ensure proper spacing to avoid rugs flapping against one another.

10. After drying, groom again, going with the primary and secondary lay of the pile.

11. If the rug pile is stiff or distorted, lightly apply Silky Soft Solution and groom again. If
yarn slippage is an issue, use the hand wash brush for silk to groom.

12. Tactfully advise the customer to never buy rayon rugs again.

Additional information:

It is important to understand that there is a wide variety of rayon fibers. Your cleaning results will vary from one type of rayon to another. There are three different methods of manufacturing rayon, with some subgroups. Let us discuss a few.

Viscose method:
Viscose rayon uses carbon disulfite during manufacturing and is very damaging to people (neurotoxin) and the environment. Viscose often contains lignin, leading to discoloration during the drying phase. Viscose becomes very weak when wet. No one should ever buy viscose.

Cuprammonium (cupro) method:
Cupro Is another process used to make rayon. Cupro does use some toxic chemistry (copper sulfate ,ammonia, sulphuric acid and sodium hydroxide) which are all recycled in most manufacturing plants, so much better than carbon disulfide used in the viscose method. Cupro is more silk like than any of the other rayon types. Cupro is also being called “vegan silk” or Bemberg silk to con people into buying more rayon. Bemberg is a brand-name for cupro. Just because you can make cupro rayon safe for the environment, does not mean that all manufacturers make it in an environmentally safe way. Remember that rayon is the worlds cheapest and weakest fiber, and many manufacturers cut corners to make it.

Polynosic rayon:
Polynosic rayon is a subtype of viscose. So very undesirable for all. However it is easier to clean than standard viscose. Viscose rayon gets weaker when wet, this makes wet cleaning very difficult, even damaging. The polynosic method of making viscose creates a stronger form of viscose. Polynosic viscose has a higher degree of polymerization than ordinary viscose. Polynosic viscose has about 55% polymerization as compared to only about 40% polymerization in ordinary viscose. Modal is a brand name for polynosic viscose. Much easier to work with than ordinary viscose when wet cleaning.

Lyocell method:
The lyocell process of making rayon does not use carbon disulfide, or other toxic chemicals, It uses 4-methylmorpholine 4-oxide so it does not harm people or the environment. Also, it does not contain lignin, the lyocell method removes all of the lignin. So, far less problems with discoloration during drying.

A brand name for lyocell process is Tensell . The lyocell method makes the best type of rayon. Better for you the cleaner, better for the environment and better for your clients. So for those who insist on buying rayon, insist on recommending the lyocell method of making rayon.

Sources:
Textile fibers, dyes, finishes, and processes a concise guide. Howard L. Needles.
Textiles in perspective. Betty F. Smith/Ira Block.
Essentials of textiles. Marjory L. Joseph.

Repairing Wool Fibers

One of the most amazing facts about wool is that you can repair damaged wool fibers. Yes, wool fibers, even though dead, can repair themselves if given the correct tools. We all know this, because we know that high pH can damage wool. We can repair some of that damage by returning wool to its isoionic balance of 5.5 pH. Your goal when cleaning wool is to leave the pH as close to 5.5 as possible. You do not have to check the pH of every square inch of every rug, but, you should know the pH of your cleaning system, If you keep your system near 5.5 pH you will probably see that your colors “pop” too, as most dyes will look their best at this pH. More important, your wool will be stronger, remember, what is made of amino acids, it likes the pH of 5.5. The fibers will feel softer too.

Even more important to the repair of wool fibers is the redox balance of the wool. Many rugs are chemically washed and this adversely affects the wool, often the disulfide bonds of the wool proteins are broken. These disulfide bonds are covalent bonds and form the “backbone” of the protein molecule making it strong. These disulfide bonds are important in the folding and stability of the protein molecules.

You can measure this damage with a ORP meter (oxidation-reduction potential meter). A healthy wool rug will have a reading of between 400 and 600 mV (millivolts). However, if a rug has a reading below 200 mV, you need to repair the wool. If you strip wash (reduce) a rug to remove color bleed you will get low readings and will need to repair the wool. Oxidation is the answer to this damage. We manufacture “Ancient Secret Formula” to get the balance of the wool back to the 400 through 600 mV range. This will make the wool strong again and will remove any sulfur dioxide odor from strip washing.

Chemical washed rugs, even brand, new rugs are sometimes washed in chlorine bleach. This will give a high reading of over 800 mV, which you need to repair with a reducing agent like Chem Max “First Stripper”. Reduction will get the wool protein back to a balanced state of 400 to 600 mV. This wool fiber repair will often improve the colors of the rug, while giving back the strength of the repaired wool fibers.

With time the wool fibers become dried out. Wool fibers have a lipid layer. This is found on the epicuticle at the wool’s outer surface, these “scales” cover the entire surface of the fiber. This structural lipid layer is about 1% of the total content of the wool fiber. As this lipid content is lost over time or the wool is damaged by aggressive washing, the wool loses its sheen and luster, plus the fibers become coarse and brittle, even fragile. The cell membrane complex of wool is also a lipid structure. This membrane acts as “cement” to hold the protein cells together. This lipid bilayer is needed to keep the wool fiber strong. You need to repair this damage and make the wool healthy again by treating it with Wool Rug Revitalizer, This can repair the damage from dried-out wool fibers and rebuild the full value of antique or damaged
wool rugs.

As a wool care professional, you should be aware of the widespread use of cyclodextrin as a deodorizer on wool carpet and rugs. Cyclodextrin is used, for example, to make Febreeze.  Repeated use can damage wool as the cyclodextrin breaks down and captures the lipids of the wool fibers. This will eventually physically break down the cell membrane complex. You can and should repair this damage from cyclodextrin by washing away residues and applying Wool Rug Revitalizer.

Just as it is important to clean wool rugs, it is important to repair wool fibers and keep them healthy. Your discerning customers will appreciate your ability to repair their wool rugs and are willing to pay for it. These services can be very profitable and satisfying to preform. A win-win for you, your customer and the rug itself.

SILK RUGS

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Note all pre-existing damage including:
A. Texture change issues
B. Color migration issues
C. Look for sunlight or ultraviolet light damage. Ultraviolet light enbrittles silk with time.
Ask about sunlight exposure.
D. Yarn slippage issues (avoid aggressive over grooming or brushing)
2. Air dusting at high-pressure can carve or streak the pile. Lower the air pressure of
dusting tools.
3. Avoid alkalinity. Do not use high pH. Use only acid pH solutions. The isoionic point for silk
is 4.5 therefore the pH of 4.5 is your goal when cleaning silk.
4. Do not use acid rinses or cleaners that contain phosphoric acid as this specifically
damages silk. Avoid all mineral acids on silk. Use only mild or weak organic acids like rug
soure.
5. Work quickly. Wash silk rugs fast and efficiently.

Wet cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug, avoiding high pressure when air dusting.
2. Spray the entire rug, including fringes, with Fringe Pretreatment or pre-wet with cold clear
water. If colors are crocking, pre-wet with AntiDye Solution. If colors/dyes are bleeding,
consider dry cleaning instead of wet cleaning.
3. Apply Silk Rug Shampoo solution to the entire rug, including fringes, front and back.
4. Hand shampoo or use rotary, Cimex or other method to work solution into the rug, front
and back.
5. Rinse with cold, clear water or run through flatbed washer or other system.
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6. Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract or centrifuge to remove all possible excess water.
7. Groom pile with the primary lay of pile yarns.
8. If needed, lightly apply Silky Soft solution and groom in, going with the primary lay of the
pile.
9. If colors/dyes can possibly migrate during drying, flat dry in dry room on cotton towels or
quilts. Place upside down, with airflow over the rugs backing. Use heat, dehumidification or
other method to speed dry.
10. After drying, groom again with a silk carding brush. Apply Silky Soft if needed. Groom in
with the primary and secondary lay of the pile. If yarn slippage is an issue, use a hand wash
brush for silk, or other appropriate grooming brush.
11. Strongly recommend applying Fluorosolve Silk. Silk is very susceptible to ultraviolet light
damage, both color fading and more importantly fiber embrittlement. Fluorosolve Silk will help
to prevent this damage along with protection against dry soils, oily soils and water based
stains.

Dry cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug. Avoid high pressure when air dusting.
2. Spray entire rug, including fringes, with Fringe Pretreatment. Allow a 3 to 5 minute dwell
time.
3. Spin Ultra Clean pads over entire rug.
4. Spray entire rug with Dry Side cleaner heavily. Allow a 3 to 5 minute dwell time.
5. Spin Ultra Clean pads over entire rug. Or extract with solvent proof dry cleaning machine.
Exhaust the vapors to the outdoors.
6. Flat dry. Absolutely NO heat or open flame, for fire safety reasons.
7. Groom pile with the primary and secondary lay of the pile.

Cautions: 

1. Test and inspect rug. Complete pre-inspection form and photograph rug. Note all pre-Existing conditions, including:
2.  Check for signs of shrinkage, dimensional distortion and rippling. 
3. Look for water marks and rings. Look for “ghost” stains that may appear after cleaning.
4.  Test for color fastness on fabric borders, if any.
5.  Check for structural integrity and rot.
6.  If latexed on back, test for damage or failure.
7.  These rugs do not respond well to cleaning, have a release signed, note on pre-inspection form and inform customer that, browning, watermarking, rings or stains will not come out. 

Cleaning procedure: 

1. Air dust or vacuum only.
2. If fabric borders fail color fastness test, set dye with Dye Fix or saturate with diluted Rug Soure solution.
3.  Apply Sublime to rug.
4.  Apply Problem Reducing Shampoo solution to entire rug.
5.  Work shampoo solution in with shampooer, hand brush, Cimex or other method, evenly, front and back if two sided.
6.  Flood rinse rug with cold, clear water, front and back until rinse water is clear. Use squeegee or weighted roller to wring out soils and water.
7.  A. Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract, centrifuge or use other method to remove excess water.
   B. If using a flat bed washer, or other system, run with no brushes, no soap, rinse only. 
8. Flay dry, face down. Use air mover across back to speed dry.
9.  For wicked-up stains or water marks, use 3% hydrogen peroxide, apply heavily to stain area and feather into surrounding areas.
10.  Tea dye may be used to even out colors after drying.

STRIP WASHING

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pre-test. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Inspect to determine the cause of color migration. Is it crocking, dye bleeding, both? Is it
   ink or stenciling?
3. Test to determine which solution removes the color. Is it oxidation? Is it reduction? Is it
   solvent? Next determine the concentration required to destroy the color at its minimum. Do not go too strong. “First, do no harm”. Avoid using heat, as high temperature can over accelerate and cause blotchiness in appearance or worse, color, and fiber damage. Determine dwell time. These instructions are using Dye Stripper to remove color. Reduction should take about 5 to 10 minutes, if any faster, you’re using too strong of a concentration. Avoid using chlorine bleach. Only use chlorine bleach as a last resort, it must be neutralized immediately after using. Chlorine bleach can cause yellowing and fiber damage.
4. Test for fiber(s) types.
5. When using redox reactions to strip wash, you should balance the fibers afterwards. Use an
   oxidation reduction potential (ORP) meter to determine the balance value. Quote for this before washing.
6. Do Not set expectations to be 100% perfection, only improvement.
7. Have release of liability signed before washing.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug.
2. Wet out rug with Dye Release solution. Work in with hand, brush or other tool.
3. Flood rinse with cold, clear water to flush out dyes if possible. If color is moving off rug,
   repeat if necessary. Use squeegee or roller.
4. Apply Rug Resurrection to entire rug, pile and fringe evenly and rapidly to achieve even
   dwell time. Work in with hand, brush, or other tool.
5. Apply Dye Stripper solution at your predetermined concentration to the worst area first
   and work your way to the least affected areas. Work in with a hand brush or other
   tool.
6. Observe attentively for color reduction. It should take about 5 to 10 minutes to reduce
   colors. Continue to apply solution and work in until the colors look good. Stop at 10
   minutes no matter what. Do Not try for 100% perfection, try for improvement (80% or
   90%) do not over shoot.
7. Rinse with cool, clear water to flush away chemicals and stop the reaction. Work in the
   rinse, water and squeegee.
8. If colors remain, apply dye stripper at increasing strength. Observe background colors and
   stop if you see color damage. Do not exceed 10 minutes of dwell time. Repeat if
   necessary. Rinse each time.
9. After rinsing, squeegee, roll, wring out, or extract to remove excess water. If using
   centrifuge, make sure to completely cover rug with absorbent cotton towels or quilts
   to prevent dye transfer “tattooing” during spinning.
10. Measure the oxidation reduction potential with ORP meter. If reading is below 400
    millivolts, apply Ancient Secret Formula solution to the pile of the rug to balance the
    value (about 500 millivolts) and to remove stripper odor. Apply after drying.
11. Flat dry rug in sunlight, if possible, even if cloudy. Sunlight will help with the colors. Do not
    hang dry.
12. Groom with pile lay after applying Ancient Secret Formula solution.

SURFACE CLEANING

Some rugs cannot survive a full immersion wash. Some rugs are not very soiled. Some rugs
are cleaned on a regular maintenance schedule. Shrinkage can be an issue with some rugs.
Stencil ink can become a problem with another one. So, sometimes surface cleaning is the
wise choice. What are some ways to surface clean a rug?

Low moisture surface cleaning

We want to control moisture, so that water does not get us into troublesome difficulty. We do
not want to get the backing wet, we would like to avoid rinsing with water. First, complete a
thorough inspection of the rug(s), see the tutorial “Hand Knotted Wool Rugs” for a good list
of considerations. Fill out a pre-inspection form.
LST is a great choice for low moisture cleaning as it will keep you out of trouble and it cleans
great. And most important, it does not leave a soil-attracting residue behind so rinsing is not
required. The pH is just right for wool fibers.

After a complete inspection :

1. Dust rug.
2. Lightly spray rug pile with Fringe PreTreatment (Sublime), if oily soil is present.
3. Lightly spray face pile of rug with diluted (8 ounces per gallon of water) LST solution. Do
not over wet.
4. Work in LST with hand brush.
5. Lightly wet out a pad or bonnet with LST solution to provide lubrication and prevent
excessive agitation to the pile of the rug. Spin the pad or bonnet with a rotary floor
machine. Flip over pad or bonnet when soiled and replace with a clean pad or bonnet,
when both sides are soiled.
6. Groom face pile with pile lay.
7. Allow rug to dry completely. Then dry vacuum or air dust.
8. Groom pile, and comb out fridges.

Some rugs can survive, more moisture, but still do not require full immersion washing. A
surface cleaning is all that is needed.

Extraction method

After a complete inspection :

1. Dust rug.
2. Lightly spray rug face, with Fringe PreTreatment (Sublime) if oily soil is present.
3. Apply LST solution (8 ounces per gallon of water) with sprayer, rain can or shampooer tank.
Wet out face pile, but not backing.
4. Work in with hand brush, shampooer, or other tool.
5. A. Use wet & dry, vacuum or carpet extractor to vacuum only extract soil and LST solution
from rug. Use slow and deliberate overlapping (50%) passes, to remove as much
moisture as reasonably possible.
B. If the backing is preshrunk, synthetic or otherwise able to take more moisture use
carpet extractor to rinse and vacuum away soils & moisture. Turn down pressure if
possible and use low moisture wand if available. Use only one or two wet passes. Use
three or four vacuum only passes. Just use clean, clear water with no extra chemicals,
let the LST do the work.
6. Speed dry with fans.
7. Groom pile.
8. Allow rug to dry completely. Then dry vacuum or air dust.
9. Groom pile and comb out fringes.

No equipment method

After a complete inspection :

1. Dust rug.
2. Lightly spray rug face, with Fringe PreTreatment (Sublime) if oily soil is present.
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3. Lightly spray face pile with diluted (8 ounces per gallon of water) LST solution. Do not over
wet.
4. Work in with hand brush.
5. Wipe face pile with cotton towels or hand bonnets to extract soil and moisture.
6. Groom face pile with pile lay.
7. Dry with fans or in direct sunlight.
8. Allow rug to dry completely. Then vacuum or air dust.
9. Groom pile and comb out fringes.

Cautions:

1. Always inspect and pretest. Document and photograph. Note all pre-existing damage.
2. Check for yellowing and browning.
3. Look for jute in backing as it will likely brown when cleaned.
4. Hems tend to come unglued at each end. Quote repair cost before cleaning.

 

Cleaning procedures:

1. Dust rug.
2. Pre-wet rug with diluted Rug Soure, front and back.
3. Apply diluted LST, or if if pre-existing browning is is present, use diluted Problem Reducing Shampoo.
4. Work in with shampooer, Cimex, hand brush, or other method, front and back.
5. Flush rinse rug with cold, clear water, front and back, until rinse water is clear.
6. (A) Squeegee, roll, ring out, extract or centrifuge to remove excess water. 
   (B) If using centrifuge, make sure to layer with thick pad to prevent dye stamping and dimpling.
   (C) If using flatbed washer or other system, run through as normal.
7. Groom entire rug.
8. (A) Speed dry, If rug has jute backing, dry flat with face side down. Add air flow to jute backing.
   (B) If drying on poles, anchor on pole at the border to prevent pole marks.

Note: If colors are migrating add a rinse cycle of Dye Release solution to rinse away color contamination.